If you happened to be driving through one of Sevilla’s industrial estates this week, you might have done a double take.
Dozens of men, sleeves rolled up and backs braced, were gathered around a huge wooden structure in the middle of the road.
Onlookers stood quietly at the sides, watching intently as the group shuffled forward in tight formation beneath a heavy platform.
To the untrained eye, it might look like a strange team-building exercise, but anyone familiar with Andalucía’s traditions will know exactly what’s going on – Sevilla is preparing for Semana Santa.
The unmistakable ensayo of a paso
What you can see is an ensayo – a rehearsal – by a brotherhood’s costaleros, the men who carry the immense religious floats known as pasos during Holy Week processions.
Hidden beneath the wooden frame, the costaleros move in synchronised steps, guided only by the voice of the capataz (foreman) at the front. Each man supports part of the enormous weight on his neck and shoulders, protected by a folded cloth known as a costal.
From the outside, you see a simple wooden structure. During Semana Santa, however, this same framework will be transformed into an elaborate float adorned with candles, flowers and sacred images – often weighing well over a tonne.
Industrial estates become training grounds
In the weeks leading up to Semana Santa, it’s common to see rehearsals taking place late at night or at weekends in industrial zones across Sevilla.
The wide roads allow the teams to practise lifting, turning and maintaining rhythm without disrupting the city’s historic centre.
The men practice not just strength, but coordination and endurance. A single procession can last between six and 14 hours.
Once the float is fully decorated, visibility is virtually zero for those underneath – everything depends on trust and timing.
More than just a procession
Semana Santa in Sevilla is a cornerstone of the city’s identity.
Each hermandad (brotherhood) spends months preparing. Families pass down membership through generations. For many costaleros, carrying a paso is a lifelong honour.
The rehearsals themselves are often emotional occasions. They mark the beginning of the countdown to one of the most important weeks in Andalucia’s cultural calendar.
Read more Andalucia news at the Spanish Eye.
